crochet Archives - Sueños Blanditos

Posted on 2 April, 20242 April, 2024 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

With the Tutorial Designing an Amigurumi: Little Cow Bookmark you will learn about triangular shapes, 3D and flat pieces and thick edges.

We are at the end of August. September is coming soon and back to school. There are many of you who asked me for a new bookmark since you really liked the one with the monkey. I had to start designing it now or it wouldn’t arrive on time, but what to do this time? I needed new ideas. Another elongated bookmark like the little monkey? It would be more of the same and my intention was to try something new.

The first thing I had to do was choose the shape of the bookmark and searching through the different models, I really liked the corner bookmarks, especially for the versatility they offer in order to adapt them to create different figures.

I wanted something simple, with simple shapes, worked with basic stitches and taking advantage of the fact that the main piece would be triangular, I could focus on that shape to design most of the rest of the elements of what I intended to be another little animal.

One of my favorites whose shape would be perfect and that I could easily design according to my conditions is the cow. Decided! The new pattern would be a little Cow Bookmark:

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

The design would have to consist of:

A triangular, hollow main piece, of the right size to insert the page of a book into it, rigid enough at the edges so that it maintains its shape as it does not have fiberfill stuff.

This piece must also have the peculiarity that one of the sides is longer than the other.

Start designing the pattern:

Main Piece

To give the piece a triangular shape, I will work the first rounds with increase sequences based on 3, that is, I will use sequences of stitches in which I will make 3 increases on each round.

The beginning of the piece, on the other hand, I want it to be more pointed and therefore after the magic ring, instead of making an increasing round, what I do is a fixed round, that is, a round without modifying the total number of points but that lengthens the piece.

It is time to alternate increasing rounds with fixed rounds to shape the piece. If I only use increasing rounds, the piece would become too wide very quickly, so fixed rounds must also be used, to, in addition to increasing the width, lengthen the piece.

Once the pointed shape has started, I need the piece to be wider, so I have to expand the increase sequences and go from making the rounds based on the 3 to making them on the 6. That way I will make 6 increases in each round, which will change the shape of the piece, expanding the triangle.

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

Divide the piece

Measuring the length and width I need, after round 23 with 60 stitches in total, I have to change the way I continue crocheting. I need one of the sides of the piece to be longer, so the easiest thing to do is to divide the piece into 2 equal parts and continue crocheting only on one of them.

Once the division is done I have to start working in rows instead of doing it in the round, as many rows as the length I want this side to be. However, I am not interested in having the side be straight since then I would lose the shape that I want to give to my cow’s head. To give a more rounded shape I am going to reduce the length of each row by losing a sc at each end, turning without ch 1 and making a final decrease.

Once I added the length I want, I could finish the piece, but it doesn’t look clean. When crocheting straight, the edges have been irregular and when doing it only on one side, the shape is not unified.

How to improve the appearance of the piece?

Working around all of it. By crocheting bordering the rows, I smooth out the uneven edges. By continuing on the short side, I unify the two parts of the piece.

Just need to give some firmness to the edges. Let’s not forget that this is a woven piece, but it must be placed on a sheet. It is necessary that the edges do not bend so easily. Crochet a last round reinforcing the stitches and forming a thicker edge working in the post of each st. In this way the main piece of the bookmark is finished. Now we have to do the details to turn this piece into a cute little cow.

Details

Continuing with the idea of using triangular shaped pieces, I can make them flat (spots) or three-dimensional (horns). Some pieces are even made up of both elements, such as the ears. Its base is three-dimensional to which a flat triangular piece is added.

As for the most important part of the face, the snout, I needed a flat, oval piece of considerable length. The simplest thing would be to reach the required length through chains and on them achieve the oval shape. That is why, instead of crocheting in rows, you have to do it on both sides of the chains. By this way you can crochet rounds and give the piece a rounded shape. As the length was established with the beginning chains, what we have to look is the width of the piece. As we already know, to achieve this, I use the increasing rounds that I alternate with fixed rounds. The piece will maintain its flat shape.

A balance is necessary in the use of both types of rounds. The fixed rounds alone would arch the shape too soon. The increasing ones would do the same with respect to the width.

Highlight the edges

The shape of the pieces is important, but we must not forget that the details are what make the difference. I wanted my little cow to have a more striking appearance. I decided to highlight the edges of several elements in black as if they were outlined with a marker.

To achieve a flat edge I had to use the lowest stitches, such as slip stitches. To make it look regular, I had to work over the back loop of the stitches. In order to avoid excessive curvature of the piece I had to increase.

Finally, the eyes had to follow the same line as the rest of the pieces. They have to be simple, flat and with the appearance of being drawn.

The chains along with the slip stitches would allow me to shape two lines. I would sew them curved over the face to give the cow a smiling appearance. The combination of black and white colors highlights them and gives them vibrancy.

All you need to do is assemble all the pieces and the cow bookmark is finished!

Little Cow Bookmark Amigurumi Pattern

>>>Vaquita Marcapáginas patrón amigurumi (Español)<<<

Did you like the tutorial Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark? Don’t forget to leave me your opinion in the comments of the post

Posted on 22 March, 202422 March, 2024 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Trophy Amigurumi pattern

Size:                     2,7″ / 7 cm
Difficulty:           High
Time:                   1 h
Hook:                   2 mm

ABBREVIATIONS
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.
If you have any questions contact me:
amigurumis@suenhosblanditos.com

MATERIALS
Golden yellow yarn
Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
Yarn needle.
Fiberfill.

Trophy Amigurumi pattern

BODY

With golden yellow yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring3.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. 1 sc in each st (24).

6. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (24). You will return to this round to complete the base.

7. 1 sc in each st (24).

8 and 9. Dec in every st (12), (6). Start stuffing the piece.

10. to 13. 1 sc in each st (6). Finish stuffing the piece.

14. Work in back loops only dec in every st (3). In this way you close the piece preventing the stuffing from coming out.

15. Work in front loops only, that is, in the loops that you left unworked in the previous round. Inc in every st. (12).

16. Inc in every st (24).

17. to 27. 1 sc in each st (24).

28. and 29. Work 1 sc in the post of each st (24)

Fasten off.

Complete the base

With golden yellow yarn

1. Return to round 6 and holding the trophy with the cup pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each st (24).

2. Work 1 sc in the post of each st (24).
Fasten off.

HANDLES (x2)

With golden yellow yarn

1.Ch 19 and work 18 sc in the chains.

2.Continue without turning, in the beginning chains again, but in the other side another 18 sc to get a 36 sc piece in all. (36).

3.Ch 1, turn and work slip stitches joining the 18 sc of each side (18).
Fasten off.
Sew the handles to both sides of the trophy making sure they are placed in the middle of it. Join them under round 28 of the cup, that is, the round in which you worked in the post of the stitches.
At the bottom, sew them to the edge of the cup, that is, leaving 3 sc of separation from the narrowest part. Don’t sew the bottom end, approximately the last 4 stitches.

Congratulations, you have finished your amigurumi trophy! Now you just have to give it to the champion of your life!

If you liked the Amigurumi Pattern Trophy, leave me your comment and if you dare to crochet it, send me the photo or tag me on social media so we can all see it.

The pattern in spanish

Posted on 24 December, 202324 December, 2023 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Gift box free Amigurumi pattern

Happy holidays from Amigurumis Suenhos Blanditos!

As it could not be otherwise, I bring you a little detail that I hope you like:

Gift box Amigurumi pattern

It is a very simple and quick amigurumi crochet pattern with which you can make a small gift box perfect for a keychain, decoration or as a complement to other amigurumi.

Size: 1,1” / 3 cm

Difficulty: Low

Time: 1 h

Hook: 2 mm

MATERIALS

– Yarn colors: lilac pink, blue-green.

-Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.

-Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.

-Yarn needle.

-Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet

st: stitch

ch: chain

inc: increase

dec: decrease

Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

LET’S GO!

BOX

With lilac pink yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “inc #3, 2 sc”, 4 times (20)

inc #3 Is to do 3 sc in the same st, that is, instead of doing a normal inc that would be crocheting 2 sc in the same st, you will work 3.

4. 2 sc, inc #3, “4 sc, inc #3” 3 times, 2 sc (28).

5. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (28). You will return to this round to complete the box.

6. To 10. 1 sc in each st (28).

11. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (28). You will return to this round to complete the box.

12. “5 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

13. “4 sc, dec”, repeat (20).

14. 1 dec, “3 sc, dec” 3 times, 3 sc (16).

15. 1 dec, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 2 sc (12).

16. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (8).

17. Dec in every st (4).

Fasten off.

Close the hole with the yarn needle.

COMPLETE THE BOX

With lilac pink

1. Return to round 5 of the box and holding it with the part of the magic ring pointing down join the thread in one corner and beginning in the next st work “ 6 sc, 1 inc” so that the increases will coincide in each of the corners. (32)

2. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (32).

3. “6 sc, dec”, repeat (28).

Fasten off.

With lilac pink

Return to round 11 of the box and holding it with the part of the last round pointing up join the thread in one corner and beginning in the next st work “ 6 sc, 1 inc” so that the increases will coincide in each of the corners. (32)

Fasten off.

SIDE RIBBONS (x2)

With blue-green yarn

Ch 33 and work 32 double crochet in the chains.

place them crossing each other through the central area.

CENTRAL RIBBON

With blue-green yarn

“Ch 24 and then 1 slip st in chain number 12 and 1 slip st in the first chain of all”. Repeat 2 more times to get 6 loops in all.

Fasten off.

.Sew the ribbon to the upper center part of the box.

Now you have your amigurumi gift box!

If you dare to do it, don’t forget to send me the photo or tag me on social media. I would love to see it!

Posted on 12 June, 202313 March, 2024 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Designing an amigurumi: Rose

The month of June begins and my garden is filled with my favorite roses, pale pink in color and an unmistakable aroma that takes me back to childhood. It would be fun to crochet one, but how?

Designing an amigurumi: Rose

Once I am sure about what I want to design, I need to have a visual model, drawing, photo or even the object itself. In this case, a rose.

It must be clear that our model must be just that, a reference to follow, but not something fixed that limits us. In my opinion, if amigurumis have something, it is that we can give wings to our imagination and capture our own tastes in them, without distorting the object they reflect.

If I’m strict, this time it’s not an amigurumi itself, I’ll explain why: I wanted to do it in a different way, without fiber fill but with volume, using the basic crochet stitches, without changing color and except for a small part, crochet in rows.

But let’s start at the beginning:

Materials:

Very light pink and olive green yarns.
2 mm crochet hook.
Yarn needle.
Scissors.
Paper and pen.

Start with the main part, the body of the rose with the petals.

I want to work straight, in rows, but to give shape and volume to my rose I need the fabric to be crocheted to roll around itself.

I really admire the work of other colleagues, but one cannot limit oneself to seeing other amigurumi crocheters. There are true artisan artists whose techniques are worthy of admiration and, why not, extrapolated to our field.

I remember seeing some molds for making fondant roses to decorate cakes in a well-known online store. With them an elongated piece was formed with waves on the sides that had to be folded and wrap. It was different from what I had seen in crochet and it was worth trying.

I start the pattern:

PALE PINK ROSE AMIGURUMI PATTERN

PETALS

With very light Pink yarn

The first row will determine the width of the flower, while the total number of rows will determine its height. A 60 sc piece, in addition to having the size I need, makes things easier when dividing the petals, as there are both 30 and 60 even numbers and divisible by 3.

1. Ch 31 and work 30 sc in the chains.

2. I Continue working in the beginning chains, but in the other side another 30 sc to have a 60 sc piece in all (60).

I already have the piece, but it needs to be wider.

3. I Place the round marker to work 1 sc in each st (60).

4. 1 sc in each st (60).

5. It’s time to start crocheting the petals:

The shape of the rose determines the size of the petals. When having to roll it, they have to go from smaller to larger size, since their position will be from the inside to the outside. To separate the petals from each other I use the slip stitch and to gain height and size of the petals I work several stitches into one and use more stitches from the piece to crochet each petal.

1) 1 double crochet, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

2) 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

3) 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

So far I have occupied 6 sc of the 30 that form half of the piece.

4) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

5) 2 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

6) 3 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

With these three petals I have occupied 12 more sc, so I have crocheted 18 sc in all. I have 12 sc left to crochet over.

The simplest thing is to make 2 final petals of the same size, each occupying 6 sc.

7) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

8) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

I have already crocheted over the 30 sc that form half of the piece.

Now I have to work over the other half following the same pattern, but in reverse, that is, when I have to roll the piece, I must start with this last petal up to the first.

Once the 8 petals are completed, I fasten off leaving a long thread to be able to sew the rose when giving it shape.

For that, I fold the piece in half and roll it.

Once it’s the shape I like, I pin it in place. I sew along the back, holding the loops carefully so they don’t separate, but leaving the petals loose.

Once the flower is finished, it is time to complete it with some leaves.

I want to cover the back of the rose, but since I don’t use fiberfill, a flat circular piece is best. Around it I will crochet the leaves. Again I am going to use even numbers divisible by 3. In this case starting with a 6 sc magic ring.

LEAVES

With olive green yarn

1. I Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

These 18 sc are enough to cover the back.

It is time to start crocheting the leaves. The idea is to do it in rows in one time. For this, I’ll use a combination of chains and sc around the main 18 sc piece. The number of chains will determine the length of the leaves and the stitches that occupy in the piece their total number. Each one will occupy 1 sc, so this time it will be the separation stitches between them that will determine the number of leaves. Being 18 sc the total stitches to crochet the leaves, the easiest thing is to make 6 leaves occupying 3 sc each, that is, 1 sc for the leaf and 2 sc separating them.

4. 1 sc, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains. “3 sc on the base piece, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains” 5 times, 2 sc.

I have already part of the 6 leaves.

The leaves need to be shaped by incorporating some detail such as irregular edges. For this I am going to continue working around the piece, bordering the leaves adding something as simple as some chains.

5. 1 sc, I work in the side of the chains: “1 slip st + ch 2 + 1 slip st, 1 slip st in the next chain” 3 times. I Continue crocheting in the other side of the leaf following the same pattern. 3 sc on the base piece to work on the next leaf following the same pattern. I Repeat until completing the 6 leaves and the round.

I fasten off leaving a long thread of wool to sew the piece on the back of the rose. Place the magic ring outside.

And the Rose is finished! Do you like it?

But this is the first version of the pattern and there are things to review and even modify. For example, adding height to the final petals, a touch of color to the initial ones. Maybe I should place the leaves in a way that is not so symmetrical, or modifying their size. Designing a pattern means giving it many turns, correcting, rectifying, even after finishing it.

I hope you like both the pattern and the tutorial Designing an amigurumi: Rose and find it useful.

See you in the next one!

Posted on 16 May, 202316 May, 2023 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Several ways to decrease

Do you know there are several ways to decrease?

One of the things that anyone who wants to crochet amigurumis must master with skill is making increases and decreases.

Today I am going to talk about the latter and the importance of doing them correctly.

In a previous post I have already told you about the decrease rounds, which are those in which we remove stitches crocheting sequences with decreases. In this way we reduce the width of our piece, modify its shape or even finish it.

Let’s see what are the different ways to decrease:

Skip a Point:

It is the basic method, but not recommended if what you want is a good aesthetic result.

Consists in:

Crochet the stitch over the second of the 2 stitches in which you must decrease, leaving the first one unworked. In theory you make a decrease, so you reduce the number of stitches. In practice, you leave holes in the fabric and a untidy look to the piece. Using it when working in the round is not a good idea, so its only use would be at the beginning of a row when we work straight.

The Traditional Method:

It is the simplest and the most used by beginners.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook, which already has a loop on it, in the first stitch where you must decrease. Take the thread, and return. Now you have 2 loops on the hook.

2. Then introduce the hook in the next stitch and do the same. You already have 3 loops on the hook.

3. To finish the decrease take the thread and go through the 3 loops in one go.

If you realize, in steps 1 and 2 it is about starting to work the first part of 1 single crochet without actually finishing it, while in step number 3 you complete it.

In this way you join the 2 points, leaving only one.

Although this method is better than the previous one, the fabric is not clean, leaving small bumps or even holes in it.

The Invisible Decrease

It is the method used by more experienced crocheters looking for a neat and tidy appearance in their amigurumis.

To execute it, you must first look at the points. They have 2 parts, one in front and one in back.

When crocheting, you normally take the entire stitch with the hook, that is, the 2 parts, but sometimes you must take only one. This is what you will do in the invisible decrease.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook only in front loop of the first stitch in which you must decrease.

2. Insert the hook in front loop of the second stitch.

3. Take the thread and cross those 2 parts.

4. To finish, with 2 loops on the hook, take the thread and complete the single crochet.

In this way you go from having 2 points to only 1, but unlike the previous method, the aesthetic result is much better. The fabric is even, without lumps or holes.

On the other hand, inside the piece you can see the back loops of the stitches that you have left unworked, something that you must take into account if you leave that part visible.

It’s not that difficult, is it? Do you dare to practice crocheting any of my patterns?

If so, send me the photo for everyone to see in the Gallery!

Posted on 9 November, 20229 November, 2022 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

Enjoy crocheting the Chestnut amigurumi pattern!

It is chestnut time and here in my land, in Galicia, we have the tradition of celebrating the Magosto.

Do you know it? It is a popular festival that takes place in all corners of the community between the end of October and the beginning of November and whose main ingredients are chestnuts, fire and wine.

I remember when I was little the Magosto celebration at school, with the roasted chestnuts prepared by the older ones, the fun games and our faces painted with the charcoal from the bonfires (there was no wine there, of course)

There are several theories about the origin of this tradition.

Some say that it is linked to the end of the chestnut harvest, given the importance of this fruit both in gastronomy and in the Galician economy before the arrival of the potato from America.

Another more magical theory, given that the magosto is usually celebrated at the beginning of November, relates it to the celebration of Samaín, a Celtic tradition later transformed into All Saints’ Day, on November 1. And there is also the saying: “Por San Martiño faise o magosto, con castañas asadas e viño ou mosto” (For San Martín the Magosto is made, with roasted chestnuts and wine or grape juice) (San Martin is celebrated on November 11)

They say that at that time Celtic rituals were performed that linked wine with life and chestnuts with death, each roasted chestnut symbolizing a soul that was freed from purgatory. How curious, right?

To celebrate this tradition with you I bring you a small gift:

Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

It is a simple pattern, with which you can crochet a funny chestnut with its bur, Kawaii style and like all my designs “totally soft”

Patrón en español

Let’s begin!

Size: 2,7” / 7 cm

Difficulty: Medium

Estimated time: 8 h

Hook: 2 mm

MATERIALS
– Yarn of different colors: white, black, brown, light brown, light green.
– Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
– Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
– Yarn needle.
– Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
BLO: Back Loops Only
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

BODY

With Brown yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (6).

3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

5. Inc in every st (18).

6. and 7. 1 sc in each st (18).

8. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

9. “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (30).

10. “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (36).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (36).

13. 1 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 5 sc (48).

14. to 17. 1 sc in each st (48).

18. 3 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 3 sc (36).

19. and 20. 1 sc in each st (36).

21. 4 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 2 sc (30).

22. Change to light brown yarn and work 5 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 1 sc (24).

23. 1 dec, “2 sc, dec” 5 times, 2 sc (18).

24. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

25. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

CHESTNUT BUR

With light green yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. From this round and the next ones you are going to work in back loops only: Inc in every st (12).

3. BLO “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. BLO “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. BLO “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. BLO “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

7. BLO “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).

8. BLO “6 sc, inc”, repeat (48).

9. BLO “7 sc, inc”, repeat (54).

10. and 11. BLO 1 sc in each st (54).

12. BLO “7 sc, dec”, repeat (48).

13. 1 sc in the post of each st (48).

Fasten off.

COMPLETE THE BUR

With light green yarn

Start working in the free loops from the final round until the beginning of the piece. Work the following sequence: “1 sc, ch 3, 2 slip st in the chains, 1 slip st in the point origin of the chains, 1 sc in the next st” Repeat to the end.

Fasten off.

EYES (x2)

Background

With White yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

Fasten off.

Pupil

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off.

Sew the pupil attached to the bottom of the white background and the whole eye leaving 10 sc of separation from the pointed part of the chestnut and 3 sc of separation between them in the middle part. With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

Centered under the eyes, leaving 1 sc of separation, embroider the mouth with light brown yarn.

Finished!

I hope you enjoy crocheting this cute chestnut and that you liked the history of this tradition!

Remember that if you crochet it you can send me the photos by email or comment on what you want here in the post.

See you soon!

If you liked the Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern, you may want to see other patterns related to Galicia:

St. James’ Cake

Patrón Amigurumi Tarta de Santiago

Galician Octopus

Witch Hat

Posted on 13 July, 202213 July, 2022 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Dennis Ball (Shopkins) amigurumi pattern

Today I bring you the Dennis Ball (Shopkins) amigurumi pattern that I was asked for a few days ago and that I did not know but that I thought was very cute and original.

This character is a small tennis ball with an angry face because it is the favorite toy of dogs and it even has drops of spit from them on its forehead.

It’s from the Shopkins figure collection that is based on products that you can buy in stores with a kawaii style and that is why I liked it to turn it into amigurumi.

It is a very simple amigurumi that will help you practice if you are just starting out or distract you if you feel like getting away for a while.

Let’s start!

Size: 2” / 5 cm

Difficulty: Low

Time: 4 h

Crochet Hook: 2 mm

MATERIALS

Yarn of different colors: white, black, greenish blue, Turquoise color
Thickness of the Yarn: 3 mm.
Hook according to the thickness of the yarn..
Yarn needle
Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease

Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

If you have doubts, visit: Amigurumi Tutorials

Patrón en español

HEAD / BODY

With greenish blue yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat to the end of the round (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. and 7. 1 sc in each st (30).

8. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

9. 1 sc in each st (36).

10. Change to turquoise color yarn and work 1 sc in each st (36).

11. to 14. 1 sc in each st (36).

15. “4 sc, dec”, repeat (30).

16. and 17. 1 sc in each st (30).

18. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

19. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

20. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

21. Dec in every st (6)

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

LEGS (x2)

Don’t stuff them

With turquoise color yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. and 4. 1 sc in each st (12).

5. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (9).

6. to 9. 1 sc in each st (9).

10. 3 dec, 3 sc (6).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

ARMS (x2)

With turquoise color yarn

1. Work 8 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (8).

4. 2 dec, 4 sc (6).

5. and 6. 1 sc in each st (6). Fasten off.

EYES (x2)

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. 3 sc, change to White yarn and work 3 sc (6)

3. Change to black yarn and work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (6). Fasten off. With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

DROPS (x2)

Don’t stuff them

With greenish blue yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. 1 sc in each st (6).

3. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (4).

4. and 5. 1 sc in each st (4).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

STRIPE

With greenish blue yarn

Ch 80.

ASSEMBLY

Eyes:

Sew them from round 13 to round 16 leaving 4 sc of separation.

Embroider with black yarn the 3 eyelashes.

Stripe:

Sew it around the body forming several curves as shown in the images. It should cross the magic ring of the head and go around the inside of the right eye. Join the ends of the piece under the body.

Eyebrows:

Embroider them with black yarn over the eyes, leaving 1 sc from them in the lower part and 3 sc in the upper part. They will be 2 sc long.

Legs:

Sew them with the magic ring of each one centered under the eyes, leaving 2 sc of separation from the eyes. Place them with the curve that they have in the narrowest part adjusted to the curve of the body.

Arms:

Sew them leaving 4 sc of separation from the eyes in their central part. Place them so that the curve they have is oriented upwards.

Drops:

Sew one of them over the left eye, curving it slightly. Place the other one over the other eye but at the height of the magic ring of the head.

Mouth:

Embroider with black yarn an inverted U-shaped mouth to give it an angry expression.

Finished!

I hope you enjoyed crocheting Dennis Ball (Shopkins) amigurumi pattern!

Posted on 17 March, 202217 March, 2022 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

Enjoy the free Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

Although the origin of this celebration is Irish, in an increasingly globalized world, it can be said that today it is celebrated worldwide, including Spain and of course, my land, Galicia.

Our common Celtic roots connect us historically and culturally with Ireland.

Thus, for example, the Tower of Hercules, in A Coruña, has Celtic elements, among which the statue of King Breogán stands out, who, according to Irish legends, founded Brigantia and built a Tower so high that it allowed one to see the coasts of Ireland.

Breogán is considered the mythological father of the Galician people, Galicia being poetically described as “Fogar de Breogán” (Home of Breogán) and this is even reflected in the Galician anthem.

To celebrate, I bring you a small detail that, as you know, is one of the symbols of Saint Patrick’s Day:

Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

It is a very easy and quick pattern to make and it is super nice as a keychain. I have made it with 3 leaves, but if you want it to give you more luck, you only have to add one more leaf…

Ver Patrón en Español

Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

MATERIALS

-Green color yarn

– 3 mm yarn.

– Hook according to the size of the yarn.

– Yarn needle.

– Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet

st: stitch

inc: increase

dec: decrease

Size: 2,7” /7 cm

Difficulty: Low

Estimated time: 1,5 h

Hook: 2 mm

LEAVES (x3):

With green yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (6).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (12).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (15).

6. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

DIVIDE:

1. From the place where you are, that is, from the round marker, count the previous 8 sc, which together with the marked sc will form the half of 9 sc of the piece. Join in the last sc of the 8 with a sc, place the round marker and crochet the 9 sc (9).

2. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (6).

Stuff the piece almost completely. Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

To crochet the other half, join, with the part you just crocheted placed on the left, in the first of the sc and work in the last a sc.

Place the marker and continue working following the same pattern.

Stuff completely. Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

Sew the small gap that has remained between the two halves with the yarn needle.

CENTRAL PART AND STEM:

With green yarn

1. Work 7 sc in magic ring

2. Ch 13 and work 12 slip stitches on the chains, 1 slip stitch in the origin stitch of the chains.

Fasten off.

Sew a first leaf through its magic ring to 3 sc of the center part. Do it next to the stem. Sew the next 2 leaves over the last sc of the center where you sewed the previous one and into the next 2 sc. In this way you will have sewn the 3 leaves on the 6 sc of the magic ring of the central part.

Finished!

I hope you liked the brief historical reference and enjoy crocheting the pattern.

See you soon!

Posted on 23 December, 202123 December, 2021 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Santa Claus amigurumi

At the end of 2021 I want to wish you a Happy Holidays with the pattern of this little Santa Claus amigurumi that I am sure you will love.

MATERIALS

Yarn of different colors: white, black, skin color, red, yellow.
Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
Yarn needle.
Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease

Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

HEAD / BODY

With skin color yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat to the end of the round (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. to 11. 1 sc in each stitch (30).

12. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

13. 1 sc in each stitch (24).

14. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

15. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

16. Dec in every st (6).

17. Inc in every st (12).

18. Change to White yarn and work “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

19. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only 1 sc in each stitch (18). You will return to this round to complete the collar.

20. and 21. 1 sc in each st (18).

22. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

23. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

24. 1 sc in each st (30).

25. Work 1 sc in back loops only (30). You will return to this round to complete the jacket.

26. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

27. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

28. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

29. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off.

Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

Complete the collar

With white yarn

Return to round 19 and holding the doll with the head pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each stitch (18).

Fasten off.

Complete the jacket

With red yarn

1. Return to round 25 and holding the doll with the head pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each stitch (30).

2. 1 sc in each st (30).

3. Change to white yarn and work 1 sc in each st (30).

Fasten off.

ARMS (x2)

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only 1 sc in each stitch (6). You will return to this round to complete the sleeve.

5. to 8. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off.

Complete the sleeve

With white yarn

Return to round 4 of the arm and holding it with the hand pointing down work in the free loops inc in every st (12).

Fasten off.

FEET / LEGS (x2)

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12)

3. and 4. 1 sc in each stitch (12).

5. Dec in every st (6).

6. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only inc in every st (12). You will return to this round to complete the pants.

7. and 8. 1 sc in each stitch (12).

9. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off.

Complete the pants

With white yarn

1. Return to round 6 of the leg and holding it with the foot pointing up, work in the free loops inc in every st (12).

2. 1 sc in each st (12).

Fasten off.

HAT

With red yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

5. and 6. 1 sc in each st (9).

7. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (12).

8. and 9. 1 sc in each st (12).

10. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (15).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (15).

13. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

14. and 15. 1 sc in each st (18).

16. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

17. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

18. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

19. “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).

20. to 22. 1 sc in each st (42).

23. “5 sc, dec”, repeat (36).

24. Change to white yarn and work 1 sc in each st in front loops only (36). You will return to this round to join the edge of the hat.

25. to 30. 1 sc in each st (36).

31. Join with slip stitches the sc from the last round with the loops from round 24.

Fasten off.

Pompom

With white yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. In back loops only work inc in every st(12).

3. In back loops only work “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. and 5. In back loops only work 1 sc in each stitch (18).

6. In back loops only work “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

7. Dec in all stitches (6).

8. Turn the piece and work in the free loops: 1 slip stitch, ch 3 in the same stitch, 1 slip stitch in that same stitch. In this way you are going to crochet some small waves around the pompom until you reach the beginning of it.

Sew the pompom to the tip of the hat.

EARS (x2)

With skin color yarn

Work 6 sc in magic ring Ring without closing with the slip stitch.

NOSE

With skin color yarn

1. Work 8 sc in magic ring.

2. to 4. 1 sc in each st (8).

Fasten off.

BEARD

With white yarn

1. Ch 13 and work 12 sc on thdm

2. and 3. Ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each stitch (12).

4. to 8. Don’t ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each st until you reach the last 2 sc, then dec 1 (10), (8), (6), (4), (2).

9. Place the round marker to start working around the piece with sc: 8 sc + Ch 5 and work 4 sc on the chains and 1 slip stitch to the point of origin of the chains (first sideburn) +Ch 5 and work 4 sc on the chains and 1 slip stitch to the point of origin of the chains (second sideburn) + 8 sc + 2 sc.

Fasten off.

BELT

With black yarn

Ch 31 and work 30 sc on the chains.

Belt buckle

With yellow yarn

Ch 3, 1 slip stitch on the last chain, Ch 3 , 1 slip stitch on the last chain of this group of 3, Ch 3, 1 slip stitch on the last chain of this group, Ch 2, 1 slip stitch on the first chain of all.

Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the beard on round 12 of the head.

Centered on it, in that same round, sew the nose.

Underneath, with black yarn embroider the mouth in a V shape and above the beard, that is, on round 12 on both sides of the nose embroider the eyes in a reverse V shape, leaving 2 sc of separation in their open part.

With white yarn, embroider the eyebrows, leaving 1 sc of separation over the eyes and with a length of 3 sc.

Sew the hat by placing it over the eyebrows and adjusting it behind the head, leaving 4 sc of separation from the neck line. The hat will cover part of the sideburns. Sew the ears over them so that the hat is on top, giving the doll a funny look. Fold the tip of the hat to the side and sew the pompom to it in a hidden way to keep the shape.

Sew the belt leaving 3 sc of separation from the last round of the jacket and on this, centered the buckle.

Sew the arms in line in relation to the ears under the color change line of the white collar and red jacket.

Finally, sew the legs centered on the lower part of the body, leaving 1 sc of separation from the last round of the body.

Finished your Santa Claus Amigurumi! It was easy, right?

Patrón en español

See you very soon

Happy Holidays and Happy Crochet!

Posted on 7 June, 20217 June, 2021 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

How to know the weight of the yarn

How to know the weight of the yarn quickly and easily is an important matter for all of us who like to crochet.

As you know, one of the most important characteristics of my patterns is that the resulting amigurumis are “totally soft”. I do not use hard elements such as wires, buttons, zippers or even safety eyes. You can crochet them only with wool or yarn, a crochet hook and fiberfill.

Since these are the only materials that I use, it is essential that they be the most suitable to achieve the desired result.

There are many of you who ask me what type of yarn I use and since we are all from different places, sometimes it is difficult for me to explain and talk about centimeters, inches and categories according to their thickness.

Today I am going to talk about yarns, more specifically, how to know the weight of the yarn when you do not have any reference, for example, if you have a mysterious ball of yarn of which you have lost the label that specifies its characteristics.

But first, there are some things you should know about yarns to make it easier for you to choose the right one when crocheting your amigurumis.

Yarns are classified into several categories, but unfortunately, there is no single method to do so.

In general, there are:

• The standards of the CYC (Craft Yarn Council) that represents the most prominent members of the yarn industry in the United States.

Depending on the weight of the yarn, we can classify it into the following categories:

• The classification according to the number of plies that the yarn has. This system is the one used in the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

The problem with this classification is that it does not determine the thickness of the yarn, but rather the number of strands that are twisted to form it. There is the possibility that a yarn of 5 strands (5 ply) may be thinner than a yarn of 3 (3 ply), by the mere fact that each strand is of a lesser thickness or have been spun with greater tension between them.

• Wraps per inch method (WPI)

As its name suggests, it is about classifying the yarn according to the wraps of the same that fit in an inch or what is the same, in 2.5 cm.

It is a very useful method to determine the weight of that mysterious ball of yarn without a label that you want to use, but you must bear in mind that it is not exact, since there are factors that can alter the measurement.

To use it you need:

• A rule.

• Something to wrap the yarn with uniform thickness. You can use, for example, a pencil or a pen.

It’s easy:

1. You must wrap the yarn so that each strand is next to each other, that is, they do not overlap. Do it carefully, do not tighten too much, or leave it loose, since you could vary the result too much.

2. With the ruler measure 1 inch or what is the same 2.5 cm. That is the length you should wrap.

3. When you have it, count the wraps you have made and guide yourself through this cheat sheet. Depending on the number of wraps, this will be the weight and category to which your yarn belongs.

If you have doubts, first try to do it with a yarn whose weight you know.